Home Lift Space Requirements in Australia

Dimensions by lift type

The space a home lift needs depends on the drive system. Here are the typical dimensions for each type installed in Australian homes.

Hydraulic home lifts

Hydraulic lifts are the most common type in Australian residential installations. They require a shaft, a pit (typically 150–250mm deep), and a separate machine room or compact hydraulic power unit that can sit adjacent to the shaft or in a nearby cupboard.

Typical cabin size: 1,000mm x 1,000mm to 1,100mm x 1,400mm Shaft footprint: 1,300mm x 1,300mm to 1,500mm x 1,600mm Pit depth: 150–250mm Headroom required: 2,500mm minimum at top landing

Electric traction (MRL) lifts

Machine-room-less traction lifts mount the motor at the top of the shaft, eliminating the need for a separate plant room. They are quieter than hydraulic models and suit homes where space is tight.

Typical cabin size: 900mm x 700mm to 1,100mm x 1,400mm Shaft footprint: 1,100mm x 1,100mm to 1,500mm x 1,500mm Pit depth: 100–200mm Headroom required: 2,500–2,700mm at top landing

Pneumatic vacuum lifts

Vacuum lifts use air pressure rather than cables or pistons. They are self-supporting — no shaft construction required — and install directly onto a flat floor.

Cabin diameter: 750mm (single passenger) to 1,300mm (wheelchair-capable) External cylinder diameter: 900mm to 1,500mm Pit depth: None — sits on the finished floor (50mm ramp threshold) Headroom required: 2,400mm minimum

Screw-drive lifts

Screw-drive lifts (sometimes called platform lifts with a screw mechanism) are compact and suit retrofits. Models like the Compact series are popular in Australian homes.

Typical cabin size: 900mm x 650mm to 1,100mm x 1,400mm Shaft footprint: 1,000mm x 1,000mm to 1,400mm x 1,600mm (self-supporting structure, no built shaft required) Pit depth: 50–70mm (ramp entry) Headroom required: 2,400mm minimum

Shaft requirements

If your chosen lift requires a built shaft, the shaft needs to meet structural and fire-separation requirements. For residential lifts covered by AS/NZS 1735.18:2002, the key requirements are:

• Structural loading: The shaft walls and base must carry the weight of the lift car, counterweight, and occupants. Your structural engineer specifies this based on the lift supplier’s load data.
• Fire separation: In a two-storey home, fire separation between floors is managed by the lift landing doors. A dedicated fire-rated shaft is not typically required for a private residence under the NCC residential provisions, but check with your building certifier.
• Ventilation: Enclosed shafts need ventilation at the top — typically a 100mm duct to the roof space or external wall.
• Waterproofing: The pit must be waterproofed if below the water table or in areas prone to groundwater.

Pit depth explained

The pit is a shallow recess in the floor at the lowest landing. It houses the car buffer and provides undercar clearance when the lift is at its lowest position.

• New builds: The pit is formed during the slab pour. Cost impact is minimal — a few hundred dollars in formwork.
• Retrofits: Cutting a pit into an existing slab is possible but adds $2,000–$5,000 depending on slab thickness, reinforcement, and access (indicative; hipages, checked April 2026). Some homeowners choose a pit-less lift to avoid this cost entirely.
• Upper floors: Timber-framed upper floors usually need a structural platform rather than a pit. The lift supplier specifies the framing requirements.

Wheelchair accessibility dimensions

If the lift needs to accommodate a wheelchair, the minimum internal cabin dimensions are set by AS 1735.12:2020 at 1,100mm wide x 1,400mm deep. This fits a standard manual wheelchair with an attendant.

For powered wheelchairs or scooters, you need a larger cabin — at least 1,100mm x 1,600mm. The landing area outside the lift door must provide a clear 1,540mm turning circle (per AS 1428.1:2021).

A wheelchair-accessible lift typically requires a shaft footprint of at least 1,400mm x 1,600mm — plan for about 2.2m² of floor space.

New build vs retrofit

Designing a lift into a new home is straightforward and cost-effective. The shaft is formed during construction, the pit is poured with the slab, and the builder coordinates penetrations and structural support. For a detailed breakdown of what this costs, see home lift costs.

Retrofitting a lift into an existing home is more complex but almost always feasible. Common retrofit locations include:

• Existing cupboard or wardrobe stack — if a cupboard sits in the same position on two floors, it may already have the right footprint
• Adjacent to the stairwell — the structure around a stairwell is often strong enough to support a shaft
• External addition — a lift tower built against an external wall, connected through new openings at each floor

The structural assessment is the critical first step in any retrofit. A structural engineer inspects the floor framing, foundation capacity, and wall positions before the lift supplier can confirm dimensions.

Planning your space

Before contacting a lift supplier, measure and record:

1. Floor-to-floor height at the proposed location (measure between finished floor levels)
2. Available footprint — the width and depth of the space where the shaft would sit
3. Ceiling height at the top landing — this determines whether you need structural changes for headroom
4. Floor construction — concrete slab, timber frame, or a mix (common in split-level homes)
5. Access path — how will the lift equipment reach the installation location? Narrow hallways or tight staircases can affect logistics and cost

With these five measurements, a lift supplier can tell you which models fit and provide an accurate quote. If you are considering a compact option for a tight space, see our guide to small lifts for homes.